UF/IFAS
Okeechobee County Extension
Okeechobee, FL 34972-2578
Phone: (863) 763-6469
E- mail: okeechobee@ufl.edu
July 19, 2007
Quick Links: Definition Use Design Installation Maintenance Plant List References
Feature
Article - for release the week of July 22, 2007
Angela
Sachson,
Occasionally someone complains about a low spot in the yard where grass won’t thrive. Here are some Florida Friendly ideas for that spot.
A
Rain garden allows runoff to re-enter the soil,
and is a place where water-tolerant plants are
used to provide a pretty place. Graphic
courtesy City of Lake Worth, FL |
A
rain garden is a shallow depression that is planted with
deep-rooted plants and grasses. It is located to receive
runoff from hard a surface such as a roof, a downspout,
a sidewalk or a driveway. Rain
gardens slow down the rush of water from these hard
impervious surfaces, hold the water for a
short period of time and allow it to naturally percolate
into the ground.
A
rain garden is a swale—a depression, and swales are
one of the cheapest and easiest water storage methods
that can be installed almost anywhere. They always have
been—the use of swales is not a new idea.
Rain
gardens greatly reduce storm runoff and reduce the
impact of what is found in storm water as it enters
local storm runoff systems.
The "ditch"
in front of these homes is called a swale.
They are designed to capture rainwater and
return it to the soil. Don't fill it in!
Plant it with Rain Garden Plants and enjoy the
beauty. Photo FloridaYards.org. |
Here's an
example of a swale that has been planted with appropriate
plants.
Photo: Doug
Pushard |
Polluted
runoff is a big problem in urban areas. Much
of the ground in developed areas is covered with hard
surfaces such as roofs, streets, parking lots and
sidewalks. In
the countryside, and prior to intensive development,
water naturally flows to low areas in the landscape and
slowly seeps through the soil and into the aquifer.
In
urban areas, water flows quickly across hard surfaces,
picking up pollutants -- from organic particles,
pesticides, fertilizers, gas, oil and other types of
residue -- before dumping into storm drains. Once in the
storm sewer system the water flows into local lakes and
streams. In
many cases, pollutant loaded urban stormwater is not
treated or cleaned in any way.
By
mimicking the natural absorption and pollutant removal
abilities of a forest, meadow or prairie, rain gardens
can absorb runoff, and do so as much as 40% more
efficiently than a lawn.
Directing rainwater to a rain garden, holding it
and then allowing it to slowly release into the soil,
allows water from a large storm to be slowed and cleaned
– quickly,
neatly and naturally.
This
saves money, keeps our water supply cleaner, and, at the
present time, it is fashionable!
Green is in and I’m sure you have heard.
The
first consideration when installing a swale is location.
It needs to be positioned where rain coming off
the roof will gravitate to the rain garden.
You may need to help make this happen with small
indentations leading to the garden.
You might also use berms (little hills or raised
areas) to direct the water.
Traditionally, rain gardens have been meadow-like;
planted with wildflowers and native plants.
This is because these plants usually are tolerant
of periodic flooding followed by periods of relative
drought. Some
suggestions for Central and
If
you think a rain garden sounds sloppy and messy, you may
not want to choose a swale full of wild flowers, native
ferns and native trees.
A rain garden can consist of one stand of
ornamental grass. Remember,
a rain garden is just a swale—a low place for
rainwater to sit and soak in.
Even
a low place with rocks will work- it will be a dry creek
bed when the weather is dry, but have the look of a
little creek after the rain.
|
This "rock garden" is a low spot in the lawn that has been planted with wildflowers and accented by a few "Non-native" rocks. Photo: Theresa Watkins, UF/IFAS |
A Water Garden is not the same as a Rain garden - this Disney Garden at EPCOT involves a non-permeable base plus a recirculating pump. Rainwater will not soak in with this garden design. Photo: Dan Culbert, UF IFAS |
Most
important—the design of the rain garden should be in
keeping with the overall design of your garden.
If you like crisp edges and symmetry, by all
means border your rain garden.
A
rain garden can be large or small—size can be
determined by your needs and aesthetic considerations.
Several small rain gardens near downspouts can be
effective. The
depth need be no more than eight to ten inches and even
that can be graded.
In fact, providing low areas in your present
flower beds is also a help.
Any
water that seeps into the ground instead of running into
a storm sewer helps water quality. A rain garden of any
size has a positive impact.
No
special maintenance required.
Use mulch, don’t let the soil become compacted
(not likely with out sandy soil), don’t water too much
and enjoy the special feeling that comes from helping
out the environment.
And
please remember the nine principles of Florida Friendly
Landscaping:
|
1.
Right Plant, Right Place 2.
Water Efficiently 3.
Fertilize Appropriately 4.
Mulch 5. Attract Wildlife |
6.
Manage Yard Pests Responsibly 7.
Recycle 8.
Reduce
Storm water Runoff 9. Protect the Waterfront |
For more information on rain gardens you can find many sites on the internet including raingardens.org and, of course our own website, http://okeechobee.ifas.ufl.edu. If you need additional information on Florida Friendly Yards, please email us at okeechobee@ifas.ufl.edu or call us at 863-763-6469. Local residents can stop by our office at 458 Hwy 98 North in Okeechobee, and visit our Okeechobee County Master Gardeners from 1 to 5 PM on Tuesday afternoons.
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|
South Florida Rain Garden Plants adapted from Brooklyn Botanic Garden |
|
Wildflowers,
Ferns, Grasses, and Sedges:
|
Trees and Shrubs:
|
| The Florida Yards and Neighborhoods program is part of your local county extension service in Highlands, Okeechobee and Glades Counties. It is partially funded from Clean Water Act Section 319 funding from the U. S. EPA through the Florida Department of Environmental Protection. Trade names, where used, are given for the purpose of providing specific information. They do not constitute an endorsement or guarantee of products named, nor does it imply criticism of products not named. The Florida Cooperative Extension Service - Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer authorized to provide research, educational information, and other services to individuals and institutions that function without regard to race, color, sex, age, handicap, or national origin. Florida Cooperative Extension Service / IFAS / University of Florida. Larry A. Arrington, Dean Last update: 07/19/2007 . This page is maintained by Dan Culbert |
Knox, Gary, et al. Yard Certification Checklist. Gainesville: UF/IFAS Extension Service, (1995). http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/fyn/certification.pdf
Lofland, Billie, et al. Florida Yardstick Workbook. Gainesville: UF/IFAS Extension Service, (1999). http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/fyn/Florida-Yardstick-Workbook.htm
Marinelli, Janet. "Rain Gardens—Using Spectacular Wetland Plantings to Reduce Runoff." Brooklyn Botanic Garden website, Spring 2004. http://www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/design/2004sp_raingardens1.html
Rhodes, Milt. Swale Stories. Raleigh: NC Division of Water Quality, 2007. http://h2o.enr.state.nc.us/wswp/images/swimages/swale_stories.htm
Waterfall,
Patricia H. Harvesting Rainwater for Landscape Use.
Tucson: University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
Service, 2007. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/water/az1052/harvest.html