UF/IFAS Okeechobee County Extension Service

458 Highway 98 North

Okeechobee, FL 34972-2578

Phone: (863) 763-6469

E- mail:  dfculbert@ifas.ufl.edu

April 21, 2005

Feature Article - for release the week of April 24, 2005

Dan Culbert - Extension Horticulture Agent

WATERING YOUR FLORIDA YARD

During spring, homeowners often ask us the "right" way to water local lawns and landscapes. The quest for green grass and beautiful landscapes has consequences for our environment.   And with many different kinds of sprinkler equipment available, homeowners seeking good choices may find today’s column helpful.

The latest suggestions can be found in the University of Florida bulletin, Fertilization and Irrigation Needs for Florida Lawns and Landscapes. This document offers ideas on how to maintain an attractive Florida Yard while reducing the impacts to lakes and rivers.

Watering Established Landscapes

So far this spring, we have been receiving plenty of rain and cooler temperatures. That means that watering has not been needed.  However, it is likely that our normally period of warm temperatures and droughts is about to begin. To survive watering restrictions, landscapes need to be "trained" to get by on minimal irrigation. Florida Yards can handle some drought if proper practices are used.

 Here’s our first recommended practice: don’t water grass until half of the lawn shows drought stress.  Some of the signs that water is needed are:

·        Leaf blades are folded in half lengthwise in an attempt to conserve water.

·        The grass looks blue-gray in color

·        Footprints or tire tracks are seen on lawns long after being made.

When you see these drought signs, set out the hose and sprinkler during evening hours and turn it on in the early morning. If you have an automatic irrigation system, set it to turn on early the next morning.  Each area or zone should be watered long enough to deliver no more than ¾ inch of water.

The amount of time needed may be different for each zone - and the process of figuring out this amount of time is called calibration.  If you have never done this before, please ask our office for help.  Remember, calibration means setting both the duration and frequency of watering.

Anther Florida Friendly practice is after that watering day, or after a ¾ inch rainfall drops from the sky, turn the system off, and do not turn it on again until drought symptoms reoccur.

The number of days needed between irrigation days depends on the kind of grass, soil texture, temperature, amount of shade, and the time of year. In winter it might be as long as every two weeks, or in early summer it may be as short as three days.

Existing landscape trees and shrubs require little or no irrigation. Special cases where supplemental irrigation may be needed include:

·        Where roots are blocked by compacted soil, foundations or underground obstacles.

·        Where roots are confined to a small area, such as in planters or sidewalk cutouts.

Flower beds often contain water hungry plants.  Placed them where their heavier water requirements will not create root rot problems for nearby trees or shrubs.  And consider using drip or micro-irrigation systems that won’t waste water.

If you still insist on watering your landscape every other day, whether it needs it or not, here’s the take home lessons:

·        Light, frequent watering wastes water and encourages shallow root systems.

·        Excessive irrigation keeps the roots underwater, drowning the plant and promotes pest damage.

Excessive water use increases water bills and may lead to higher costs for pest management services. And excessive water can take fertilizer and soil with it as it runs off into ditches that lead to Lake Okeechobee .

The above practices are general guidelines for established landscapes, and are not suitable for new lawns or recently transplanted trees, shrubs or ground covers. The levels of water needed by new plantings are much higher than the amounts needed by established plants.

For example, Dr. Gilman’s research has shown that the best way to get a Live Oak tree established in the landscape is to provide adequate water after plating.  Newly planted trees will need two to three gallons of water per inch trunk diameter.  For example, four to six gallons will be needed for a two-inch caliper tree.  Frequency will depend on temperature and the tree diameter.  That two inch tree will need to be watered twice a week weekly for 2 months.

On the other hand, after landscape plants are properly established, remember to turn down the frequency and duration of irrigation.  I have seen many new landscapes that have become pest-infested nightmares because no one ever tuned back the irrigation clock after they were planted. 

To learn more about the appropriate levels of water needed for new plantings, please consult the bulletin, Fertilization and Irrigation Needs for Florida Lawns and Landscapes. It is available at our office or on-line at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP110.

I’ve placed more information on our Okeechobee web page,  http://okeechobee.ifas.ufl.edu.  If you need additional information on landscape and lawn irrigation, please email us at okeechobee@ifas.ufl.edu or call us at 863-763-6469.  Local residents can stop by our office at 458 Hwy 98 North in Okeechobee, and visit our Okeechobee County Master Gardeners on Tuesday afternoons from 1 to 5 PM . 

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Trade names, where used, are given for the purpose of providing specific information. They do not constitute an endorsement or guarantee of products named, nor does it imply criticism of products not named. The Florida Cooperative Extension Service - Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer authorized to provide research, educational information, and other services to individuals and institutions that function without regard to race, color, sex, age, handicap, or national origin.  Florida Cooperative Extension Service / IFAS / University of Florida.  Larry A.  Arrington, Dean Last update: 04/21/2005 .  This page is maintained by Dan Culbert  Hit Counter

 

For More information:

Dukes, M. D. and Haman, D.Z.  Operation of Residential Irrigation Controllers, CIR1421. Gainesville : Florida Cooperative Extension Service, July 2002. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/AE220

Garner, A., Stively, J, Smith, H., Hoppe, M., Floyd, T. and Heathcliff, P.  A Guide to Environmentally Friendly Landscaping: Florida Yards and Neighborhoods Handbook, SP 191. Gainesville: Florida Cooperative Extension Service, May, 2001. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP079 .

Trenholm, L.E., Gilman, E.F., Knox, G.W. and Black , R.J.  Fertilization and Irrigation Needs for Florida Lawns and Landscapes, ENH860.  Gainesville : Florida Cooperative Extension Service,  January, 2002. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP110 .